By Sander Tamm
Last updated: Feb 2, 2025
Pictured: Shirt made from 100% organic linen (Eileen Fisher)
What is organic linen fabric?
Organic linen fabric is a natural plant-based textile woven from fibers produced from the woody stem of the flax plant, grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Like conventional linen, organic linen is used for clothing and home textiles and the fabric feels and functions like regular linen, known for its durability and breathability.
In 2023, around 400 thousand tonnes of linen fiber was produced worldwide, with less than 1% grown organically. This makes certified organic linen one of the rarest fibers available, with an annual global production volume of under 4 thousand tonnes. In comparison, the production volume of certified organic cotton in 2023 was 772 thousand tonnes, or 193x more than organic linen. As linen naturally thrives without synthetic inputs, it’s likely that organic linen’s true production volumes are higher, though. It’s simply not certified as organic.
What are the properties of organic linen fabric?
Organic linen fabric has all the same key properties as conventional linen, including exceptional durability, breathability, moisture-wicking, and hypoallergenic qualities. Its flax-derived fibers provide impressive strength and resilience, with a crisp texture that holds its shape and a natural luster that enhances its aesthetic appeal. Like regular linen, organic linen effectively wicks moisture from the skin, regulates body temperature, and ensures comfort in both warm and cool climates.
The distinction lies in its production. Organic linen is grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, ensuring a purer cultivation process. However, the fabric's qualities depend more on fiber length, quality, and finishing methods than farming practices. Organic linen shares regular linen’s advantages but also its drawbacks, including a tendency to wrinkle and shrink, requiring proper care to maintain its appearance and size.
Sustainability certification and standards for organic linen
The two key standards to search in organic linen fabrics are:
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): GOTS is the most holistic certification for organic linen and other organic fabrics, enforcing environmental and social criteria throughout the supply chain. Like OCS, it verifies the organic claims in final products, but it adds many additional criteria uncovered by organic farming principles, such as fair labor conditions and safe working environments.
- Organic Content Standard (OCS): OCS focuses on verifying the presence of organic flax fibers in the final linen product through chain-of-custody tracking. It does not set additional social or environmental requirements, serving solely to confirm organically grown raw materials from the farm to the finished linen product.
Is organic linen sustainable?
Yes, organic linen is one of the most sustainable textile materials, building on the already strong environmental benefits of conventional linen. All linen benefits from flax’s low water needs, ability to thrive in poor soil, and minimal reliance on synthetic inputs, making even conventional linen a relatively sustainable choice compared to many other fabrics. It scores the highest possible “A” from the Made-By Benchmark, which evaluates fibers for key environmental impacts.
Organic linen builds on the advantages of linen by fully eliminating the use of synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, and GMOs. Organic farming practices also emphasize crop rotation and natural soil amendments, which improve soil health, biodiversity, and long-term agricultural resilience. Certifications like GOTS further ensure not only that organic farming standards are met but also that the fiber processing aligns with strict environmental and social criteria.
Flax grows naturally without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, so the gap between organic and conventional linen is smaller than that between organic and conventional cotton. Organic linen is also exceedingly rare, making regular linen a reasonable choice to consider. If you find an organic linen product, however, especially one certified by GOTS, know that it represents an outstandingly sustainable choice.